Trekking in Switzerland from Zurich to Geneva

The Jura trail, or in French, “Chemin des Crêtes”, leads in about 20 daily stages from Zurich to Geneva. All year round it is an interesting place to go, in Summer on foot and in Winter with snowshoes. Even by mountain bike it is lovely. Of course, there are passages where the bike has to be pushed or even carried—and it is understood that you better not take your bike in winter. I love this trail for several reasons.

• Most of the time the trail stays on top of the “Jura” mountain chain—therefore the French name “Chemin des Crêtes” means “way on the mountain ridge.”
• The trail goes nearly all the way across Switzerland, from the German speaking Zurich to the French speaking Geneva—and you feel the change in mentality (from German “Gündlichkeit” to French “laisser faire”).
• The stages can be combined easily from one day to full three week trips. All parts have nearby public transport, and for overnight you can choose between rural alp huts and three (or more) star hotels.
• At any time of the year it is something special: flowers in spring, cool breezes and views of glittering lakes in Summer, escaping the misty days in Fall and looking over the sea of fog to the Snow Mountains with snowshoes in wintertime.

Let’s do some stages together. We choose the part from Neuchâtel to Ballaigues—a little bit past the language frontier—in the French speaking part of Switzerland.
The equipment: good walking boots are essential, and walking poles help, especially for downhill. Something to drink and to eat goes in your backpack, and a change of clothes—even if we know that not all hostels have showers.

Day 1 : Neuchâtel/Bôle – Métairie la Grand’Vy, + 1000 m, 4 h

At the railway station of Bôle we catch the trail and follow the signs for the “Chemin des Crêtes”, a red and yellow diamond.

The path becomes steep and reaches the gorge of the Areuse river, offering an impressive view. We go into the forest and climb higher. After 3 hours we reach the alp restaurant “Fruitiêre de Bevaix.” Here, we enjoy a meal with sausage and cheese.

Our target this day, the Métairie La Grand’Vy, is only about 30 Minutes away. Arriving at this lovely alp restaurant, we quench our thirst with soft drinks, before changing to the compulsory white wine. Well, we are walking above the well known vineyards of Switzerland (at the edges of the lakes of Biel, Neuchatel and Geneva). The grapes are mostly the Chasselas which creates a tasteful and dry white wine.

For dinner we order fondue, made of melted cheese, a specialty not to be missed. We are the only guest to stay overnight, and we get a nice small room. No shower, but cold water and a toilet on the same floor.

Day 2: Métairie de la Grand’Vy – Hôtel de France, Ste.-Croix,
+ 700 m, - 500 m, 6 _ h

Instead of going the shortest way, we turn to the rocks of Creux du Van. This is a nature park with steep inclines and chamois (mountain goats) live. We are lucky, a group of three young goats climb up to eat breakfast in the meadows. Later, grown ups show up too. Because there is no hunting, they are not afraid of humans.

We continue through pastures to Les Rochats and La Combaz. We planned to make a stop for lunch at La Combaz, but the restaurant is closed without a reason. That’s typical French “laisser faire.” From time to time there are warning signs, “attention vache mères”, meaning, there are mother cows with their young with them. You can be attacked if you happen to come in between!

From today’s highest point, the mount Chasseron, we have a great view to the lakes of von Biel and Neuchâtel.

We continue our way to St. Croix on a steep ridge; sometimes the way is quite exposed.
We arrive at the small town and easily find our hotel, the “Hôtel de France”. We enjoy a hot shower and change clothes before having a nice dinner at the bistro.

Day 3: Hôtel de France, Ste.-Croix – Métairie des Cerneys, Ballaigues
+ 700 m, - 800 m, 6 h

This is not the shortest way to Geneva. Instead, we following the red and yellow signs to Vallorbe. We prefer the altitude and sleep in an alp hut. Therefore, we have a map (1:25’000) with us and find our own way quite easily.

From St. Croix the way goes slightly up to the alp farm “Grange-Neuve”, were we take our lunch. While walking on, we here noises above our heads and see a group of climbers. The area seems to be good for different kind of sports!

We are close to the frontier to France. At several spots there are still reminders of World War I and II: big bunkers to survey the “enemy”. We are lucky that we do not need those anymore.

We cut again and do not climb up to the Mont Suchet—we have already been there, carrying up our mountain bikes. Instead, we continue towards Les Cerneys. Through pastures with fir trees you can spot the Snow Mountains. The highest is Mont Blanc, which is located in France.

We are reaching the alps of Les Cerneys. Here again, we are the only guests to stay over night. A big bedroom is prepared with old army sleeping bags, we have the choice of the best corner! There is no water, only collected rain. As the rocks are limestone, the water trickles away and only appears again further down as a small river.

What would you like for dinner? Well, there is a choice of different cheese meals, because the alp farms produce cheese. We once again indulge in the fondue and are happy with it. In the corner of the restaurant we see a notice that this hut is also open in winter. Oh, we certainly come back in winter!

During the last days we did experience the first snow fall. Now it is time to have a look at our winter sport equipment (skis and snow shoes).

Written and Photographed by Aschi Haas

For more on Switzerland at ITKT

Written by Aschi Haas

Last 3 posts by Aschi Haas

• Skiing the Alps at Verbier - April 28th, 2007
• Aschi Haas - November 29th, 2006

Links & Info