Constantinople (not Istanbul)

Today Istanbul is a vibrant and modern city, but it’s built on top of an ancient past.  What’s under Istanbul? You may remember the Four Lad’s song from the 50’s:

“Istanbul was Constantinople
Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople
…
So take me back to Constantinople
No, you can’t go back to Constantinople”

But the lyrics are wrong. You can still visit the ancient city.

The Basilica Cistern, a well-preserved piece of this Roman city, has been restored and opened to the public. Masterful Roman engineers constructed a gargantuan aqueduct to bring a secure source of water from nearby mountains. Then they built and buried an equally gargantuan structure to hold it. This water kept the city alive during the many barbarian sieges, but over the years the reservoir was forgotten. One story tells of the rediscovery by an Englishman visiting the city in the 19th century. He met a local who invited him to a fishing hole. The visitor was astounded when led underground, and the “discovery” was made. Another story with similar facts tells of its rediscovery in the 16th century by an Ottoman scholar. Whichever tale is true, today you’ll discover it by descending an ancient stairway just a short walk from the old city center. The visitor emerges into a massive underworld originally filled with water but now only a few feet deep. An elevated walkway guides you through this subterranean world where fish still swim today, with music and subdued lighting adding to its mystery.

Other glimpses of Constantinople can be seen above ground all within a short walk:

The Hippodrome: A chariot track built to rival the Circus Maximus in Rome. It’s now buried beneath a park, save the towering Egyptian obelisks erected by the Romans that continue to poke skyward through the ground.

Aya Sofia: Originally built as a church in late Roman times, it was rebuilt as a mosque when the Ottoman Empire ascended, and now it’s a museum. Constructed with remnants of the past, you’ll see excellent examples of Roman stonework incorporated into the structure. [Aya Sofia pic]

Turkish Archeology Museum: The collection includes many Hellenic and Roman pieces. Among the must-see items on display is the marble sarcophagus in which Alexander the Great in was interred.

A central location to stay while in Istanbul is the Turkoman Hotel. Set in a restored 19th century house right in midst of the old city, this multi storied building has balconies where the Emperor’s box seat might have overlooked the Hippodrome. An enclosed rooftop café/bar with terrace gives views of the Blue Mosque and the Sea of Marmara beyond.  Ask for room 4A for the best view.

Links:
Turkoman Hotel

Written by: Steve Smith and Christine Johnson
Photography by: Steve Smith
Lyrics: ‘Istanbul (Not Constantinople)’ by Nat Simon and Jimmy Kennedy

Written by Steve Smith & Christine Johnson

Last 3 posts by Steve Smith & Christine Johnson

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