Meditating with Monks

Phra Saneh Dhammavaro, one of the Buddhist masters at the Wat Suan Dok temple in Chiang Mai, Thailand, is one of the most patient, kind, and wise people I’ve ever met. His face is timeless, so it’s hard to tell exactly how old he is. However, he’s been a practicing Buddhist monk for more than two decades. His eyes are filled with wisdom and tolerance and every sentence he delivers is carefully thought out and full of meaning and inspiration. He’s the reason I decide to attempt the two-day silent meditation retreat his temple organizes.

My journey into the unknown started one random Wednesday when I decided to visit the temple’s “Monk Chat” program, which runs twice per week for the last six years. Dhammavaro organized the program so his students, who are all accomplished scholars at the temple university, can mix with foreigners and encourage understanding of the often misunderstood and historically persecuted religion.

Through our first encounter, I learned many things about their practices, but the one common thread that resonates throughout their teachings is tolerance and acceptance of others. Dhammavaro and his student, Phra Tippanakorn Laolee, who is now head of Monk Chat, explain that Buddhism isn’t about one religion being better than another, but is more of one’s own journey to enlightenment through self discipline and dedication to the Buddhist life guidelines. Buddhists aren’t allowed to pollute their body with alcohol or drugs, cannot lie, be kind to all living beings, and adhere to the Four Noble Truths, which refer to the opinion that suffering is certain and the path to end suffering is through meditation and enlightenment.

The following Tuesday, I met the other travelers at the temple. The intimate group is a cross-section of society: a German lesbian couple, some Californian sorority girls, a shy Austrian couple, a punk from England, an arrogant travel journalist (not me), a hard-hitting New York lawyer, and a middle-aged Englishman who just broke up with his girlfriend and sold his house. And just as different as we all were in demographic, so too were our reasons for embarking on this journey. Some wanted to find inner peace. Some were just curious about Buddhism and mediation. Some were just along for the ride.

I was greeted by a friendly group of monks in traditional saffron robes, who stood in front of a manicured building with floor-level dormitories and a golden Buddha statue in the courtyard.

The Buddha created a silhouette against the burnt sky as the sun dipped gracefully below the horizon. The silence resounded as we change into our white uniforms: Thai fishermen’s pants and a shapeless smock.

We wore tags around our necks that said “Silence!” And with that, our two-day silent meditation began.

So there I was, dressed in white attire and pacing somewhat nervously around the property in bare feet, feeling more like a mental patient than an enlightenment seeker.

When the bell sounded, we gathered for a hearty Thai meal, and then filed into the meditation room for the first time that evening. A Buddha painting smiled down from the front wall, framed by small statues and incense, flowers and food – offerings to the gods. White cushions were set in rows and I took a seat.

The following 48 hours are a contradictory mix of peace and agony. At times my mind was at peace. At other times, it cried out in exasperation. The “monkey mind,” as the monks call it, won’t stay calm as most try to quiet the chaos within, using different techniques and body positions to channel energy, by sitting, standing, lying, and walking meditation.

“I’m meditating. Okay, it’s working. Blue skies and waves. A white sandy beach. Hey, what’s that noise? A bird? Damn, who coughed? Oh crap, I forgot to meditate. Okay, I can do this. Just concentrate. Ohmmmmmmm. Oh man, my legs are killing me right now. This sitting position is so painful. Come on Amber, why can’t you just meditate?”

It was a constant battle against the little hamster running on his wheel that lives in my brain. At times I felt not only frustrated, but also ridiculous. Like when it was 10 p.m. under the starry sky and I was in front of the Buddha and part of a military-like formation chanting in what feels like a mental boot camp.

But, the monks are patient with me. They spend time in the discussion session the next day, answering my many questions about the fundamentals of Buddhism, enlightenment, meditation, and their reasons for becoming monks. They deliver their message of personal responsibility for the Earth and for humanity, encouraging everyone to be good people and respect all forms of life.

The two-day meditation retreat was a small window into the disciplined life of a Thai Buddhist monk – an especially strict sect of the religion. All young Thai boys are required to enter a monastery, but are not forced to stay. There are many rigid traditions the monks follow, including receiving Alms each morning from town locals and performing a strict ritual before every meal. They are not allowed to touch women and traditionally, Thai women aren’t allowed to be monks.

These Buddhist monks, who have been persecuted throughout the world for their beliefs, have no time for hostility or intolerance. The monks at Wat Suan Dok are bridging the gaps between their ancient beliefs and the modern world. When I visited, they were planning on extending their meditation retreat from two days to seven.

According to Phra Saneh Dhammavaro, a monk must never reveal whether he has reached enlightenment, but sometimes, other monks can sense it. I’m not a monk, but I believe he is an enlightened being – the type of person the world needs more of.

Perhaps one day, I too can tame my monkey mind.

For more information on Wat Suan Dok and their Monk Chat and meditation retreat programs, visit http://www.monkchat.net/

Written by Amber Turnau

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Written by Amber Turnau

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