The Pure Life, part 2

Officially known as La Fortuna de San Carlos, it is a small inland town in northern Costa Rica. Shadowed by the active volcano Arenal, the town is best known for its volcano-related tourism. However, tucked deep in its remote forests lay a hidden wonderland where the adventurous can come to play. I discovered a canyon rappelling tour that was featured on the Eco Challenge 2003, and decided to sign up. I knew we were in for an adventure the moment the 4WD truck turned off the paved road and ascended a mountain trail of mud and rocks. As the little truck crawled up the track, vegetation unfolded in the valley below and my mind raced with anticipation. Soon, we arrived at our destination, and our tour group climbed out at the canyoning home base.

After fastening our harnesses and helmets and listening to a brief how-to lesson, we hiked 10 minutes into the forest and found ourselves standing at the edge of a 165-foot waterfall. Inching to the edge, I felt the weight of my harness support me as I leaned back and fed the rope through my gloved hands like the guide had taught us. Before, I knew it I was flying through the air, bounding away from the rock face and flying back toward the wall three meters down. And, so my adventure began. I hiked through the pristine forest, through streams, over rocks and down waterfalls – all the while surrounded by massive rock faces and ancient forest. It was an exhilarating introduction to La Fortuna, but adventure wasn’t over yet. It was also during my stay in La Fortuna that I met Roberto, the man in his mid-50s with soft brown eyes and a kind smile who was staying in the room next to mine. He travelled the country, selling churros (deep fried pastries with cinnamon and sugar) at fairs and carnivals and was in town for the Parade of Horses festival. Between my broken Spanish and his patchy English, we managed to have quite an in-depth conversation.

I asked him if it ever bothered him that there were so many tourists in the country. He admitted that North Americans are wealthy compared to Ticos, and some Ticos are annoyed that tourists can vacation in Costa Rica and take advantage of the cheap prices, thus driving the cost of living up. However, it is these same tourists who help to sustain Costa Rica’s economy. Roberto said he didn’t resent anyone for having more than him, but he wished that there were more opportunities for his fellow nationals to find good jobs. As we sat on the porch that evening and watched the La Fortuna children play across the street, I noticed that the children did not need video games and satellite TV. They were laughing and jumping and spinning, just the same.

Having spent almost a week inland, I longed to get back to the sun and salt, and mustered enough energy to make the long journey to the Caribbean coast. The Pacific and Caribbean coasts differ as much in landscape as they do in culture. While the Pacific coastline is longer and rugged, with more national parks, better surf spots and a heavy Latino influence, the Caribbean boasts a shorter, more overgrown coastline, delicious coconut rum and Rastafarian culture. Many of the people who live in the Limon province are of Jamaican descent and their passion for reggae music, unique slang and adoration of Bob Marley are all integral parts of the colourful Caribbean spirit.

Puerto Viejo, the most popular travel destination on the east coast, is a laid-back surf community that boasts the world famous Salsa Brava reef break. The town has an eclectic mix of hair braiding salons, street vendors, reggae bars, and bicycle rental shops. Like many towns in Costa Rica, these amenities are spread over several kilometres, so a leisurely bike ride is the most appealing mode of transportation.

I spent a day biking south along the single lane road that connects a string of east coast towns together. Cycling parallel to the beach, past vibrant red hibiscus bushes, palm trees and ferns on my way to the seaside town of Manzanillo, I couldn’t help but realize this virgin land has barely been touched since settlers inhabited it in the middle of the 19th Century, consisting of a few sparse homes and the occasional bridge. Selfishly, I hope this little sanctuary would never change. Time flew by in Puerto Viejo all too quickly and my two-month journey through Costa Rica came to an end.

Later that week, I found myself begrudgingly walking back onto a plane bound for Vancouver. I had seen the heart of Costa Rica. It was not only a paradise of palm trees, beaches and ocean, but also a resourceful people, finding innovative ways to support themselves, living off their land and crafting beautiful jewellery, art work and clothing to sell. Despite the fact that they work so hard for so little money, it seems like the Costa Rican people truly enjoy life. They surf, they dance, they love and they live. While they don’t possess the material wealth we do, amidst our reality TV shows and our cheap mortgage rates, Ticos have something much more valuable. They have the wise understanding that life isn’t about work and money as much as it is about friendship, family and laughter.

I’ll always remember riding that bike along the deserted road in Puerto Viejo. I remember the red flowers lining the road, the warm Caribbean breeze on my face, and the aroma of rainforest in the air. There, I felt a taste of that pura vida the Ticos speak of, and it was sweet. It was the rush of rappelling down a waterfall. It was a baby turtle finding the ocean against all odds. It was children playing in the twilight. It was pure life.

Part one of The Pure Life

Written and photographed by Amber Turnau

For more on Costa Rica at ITKT

Written by Amber Turnau

Last 3 posts by Amber Turnau

• The War of Tomatoes, Spain - September 3rd, 2008
• Meditating with Monks - May 22nd, 2007
• When Hell Freezes Over - February 7th, 2007

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