Something about La Rioja

I love to search for charming little places around the world, the type that do not usually fall under the average tourist’s wish-list, places I wish I could savour all by myself and hide from all you other thirsty travelers out there. But, alas, here I am in the magical wine region of La Rioja in Spain, and I am about to-very reluctantly may I say-divulge my precious secret to all. How selfless of me. Or maybe, it could be the overdose of Spanish vino that has permeated every cell in my brain that has led me to spill the beans. Who knows.

I am in love with Laguardia, a pretty medieval town sitting on a rocky hilltop commanding spectacular views of the whole region. I curiously make my way through the intricate network of cobbled alleyways, stopping at little tavernas to sample home-made tapas and peeping into quaint shops selling authentic produce. No one speaks a word of English here, but I am well acknowledged — old women nod at me on their way to church, meat sellers smile and big-bellied men standing in the doorways of their vinotecas wave me in to sip their best wine. Lost in my own world, trying to absorb all of this, I stumble across an imposing majestic chunky wooden door: ‘Posada Mayor de Migueloa’ says the sign (www.mayordemigueloa.com). What was once an old mansion is now an authentic hotel that depicts the ultimate in gracious Rioja living. I spend a ‘royal’ night here, chatting to the bubbly owner Meri, marveling at the grand rooms, walking through hallways complete with velvet chairs, gold-encrusted mirrors, crystal chandeliers and Persian carpets and treating myself to a sumptuous dinner of ox-cheek in blue-cheese sauce in the in-house restaurant.

Next day, I wander round the little town of Elciego, dominated by rolling hills and vineyards, where I search for an outrageous looking hotel/winery that has recently dominated travel magazines, the Marques de Riscal, (www.marquesderiscal.com) designed by the renowned architect Frank Gehry. Finally I spot it, sprouting out from the vineyards, an ultra-modern, one-of-a-kind intricate mass of pink, silver and gold metal sculptures twisting around a 150 year old building, strangely blending in to the surrounding lush greenery. Truly impressive. I must explore.

“Hola, welcome, you want a room madam?”

In reality all I can afford is a photo standing outside!

The steep prices have me run off to another nearby village, Haro. I stroll around the main square, Plaza la Paz, and follow some locals through narrow alleyways leading to a compact old quarter. An old building has me intrigued. I walk in. Thick, stone walls and archways, all meticulously restored, lead to a magnificent cloister covered with a glass vault. This is Hotel Los Agostinos (www.hotellosagostinos.com), a 1373-built convent, and later on a hospital, school and even prison. I make myself at home in this oasis of peace, sipping a coffee and delving into a deliciously sweet Spanish pastry of some sort. Later on I make my way to my room for the night. Buenas Noches, I shall sleep so well.

As a grand finale, I visit the Dinastia Vivanco Bodega, in Briones (www.dinastiavivanco.com). I am speechless. This goes way beyond my expectations. This winery really is a dynasty. I walk round its very own wine museum, in the heart of the vineyards, and come out somewhat dizzy. No, no, I am not yet tipsy. It’s just that five floors of wine exhibits, explanations of vine cultivation, wine making, wine art and history have sapped most of my energy. I have pleasantly been invited to lunch in the Vivanco restaurant. My dizziness fades away, and my senses are re-awakened as I sample heavenly pieces of the most delicate creations of food imaginable, washed down with different wines, each with their own specific aroma, texture and flavour, which my now I am beginning to learn to distinguish and almost bluff about.

Actually I am glad that I have not kept this precious secret all to myself. I feel relieved now. Conscience clear. Do I deserve any thanks? No, but the least you can do now is go and try it out for you yourselves!

Photos by Carolyn Bonello

Coming from the tiny island of Malta, my desire to explore the world is intense. Mountains are my greatest inspiration and I especially enjoy trekking in the Alps. I love adventure and have climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, been to Everest Base Camp and backpacked through South East Asia. I have visited 30 countries so far and hope to top 50. I work as a Physiotherapist and in my free time love reading, swimming, cycling and any other form of outdoor activity. I keep journals of most of my travels, have written several articles, and love reading about other people’s experiences, as this motivates me to constantly plan where to conquer next!

Written by Carolyn Bonello

Paris on a Budget

Like any large city, Paris is expensive and like for any visitor, the daily expenses add up. Below are a few practical suggestions, for every budget, on how to make the most of your money; however long your visit.

Choosing the right travel Pass
Paris’s array of metro options can seem daunting at first glance, but for visitors they basically boil down to two choices: taking a ticket for a single trip or buying a pass for one, or several days- all allow you to travel on both the bus and metro. Also check out www.ratp.info

Single Trip: €1.60
Carnet (a pack of ten, single trip cards): €11.40
Paris Visite Pass (unlimited travel for specified number of days, in a specified number of zones- Paris is just one zone):
1 day pass: €8.80
2 days: €14.40
3 days: €19.60
5 days: €28.30

When in Rome France www.paris-eating.com
Most Parisians eat their main meal at lunchtime and this is when you will find the best deals available. Three Course lunch menus can be found all over Paris for as little as €10 - often with a glass of wine included.

Dinner menus are also available in many restaurants but typically don’t usually offer as good value for money. The Latin Quarter (opposite Notre Dame) is where you will find the highest concentration of budget eating but every area has a considerable choice.

Café Break
If you’re stopping for a drink in a café or bistro bare in mind that prices change depending on where you sit. The cheapest coffee (or whatever you’re taking) will be at the bar. Sit down at a table (inside) and anywhere between 10%-50% could be added on to your bill. If you decide to head out on the terrace- this is the premium spot - some places could charge almost double for you to sit there. Also be aware of what size you are ordering and how much it costs: servers will often give you the largest measure unless you specify otherwise.

Sleep (and eat) out of the City
The Boulevard Peripherique- a busy road that circles the city defines the limits of Paris. Everything outside of this road is considered the suburbs and as such means prices drop considerably.

Search for a hotel close to the city limits and you could have a room for a fraction of the price- sometimes a double room for less than the price of a single hostel bed in central Paris. And, depending where you base yourself you could be closer to many of the major sights than some areas of Paris itself.

Apartment Rentals
If you’re staying in Paris for more than a few days it can be considerably cheaper to rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel, or even hostel, especially if there’s a few of you. As virtually all apartments come equipped with a kitchen, you can also save on your food costs. It’s worth hunting around as bargains can be found even if you’re staying just one or two nights.

Search out the Supermarkets
Unless you look it’s unlikely you’ll stumble upon a supermarket in central Paris, let alone a corner store on many occasions, but they are there and often not far from many of the major attractions.

Franprix www.franprix.fr, Monoprix www.monoprix.fr and Atac www.atac.fr are some of the largest chains in the city and there’s never one too far away. Enjoying one of the city parks with a picnic is a classic way to pass the afternoon.

Book Ahead
Weather it’s for a hotel or hostel or guided sightseeing booking ahead will almost always save you some cash. Reserving a train on line at www.voyage-sncf.fr can save you up to 75% compared with buying at the station. Even some museums and even restaurants offer money off for those that reserve on line.

Matt Scott has spent the majority of his adult life working and traveling abroad. A keen writer and photographer his work has appeared on line and in print in publications around the world. He currently lives in Paris where he works for an active travel company.

Written by Matt Scott

Paris Museums

Paris has some of the best museums in the world, but not all of them have to cost you a fortune. All national museums are free on the first Sunday of each month ( but expect long queues) and if you’re under 25 you can enter the Louvre for free every Friday night (after 6pm) for free.

Many other museums offer free entry at various times and there are over a dozen free museums which are well worth checking out. Some of the most popular free museums are:
Le Petit Palais- Fine Arts Museum: www.petitpalais.paris.fr
Musee Carnavalet- Museum of Paris History: www.carnavalet.paris.fr/
Paris Modern Art Museum: www.paris.org/Musees/Art.Moderne.Ville/
The House of Victor Hugo: www.musee-hugo.paris.fr/

If you’re staying in the city for a few days, or are considering a world-wind tour of the must see sights in just a weekend then a Museum Pass is essential. It not only allows you skip the queues in practically all of the city’s museums but also access many of the major monuments as well- such as the towers of Notre Dame and the Arc de Triomphe.

2 day pass: €32
4 day pass: €48
6 day pass: €64

For more information: www.parismuseumpass.com

Matt Scott has spent the majority of his adult life working and traveling abroad. A keen writer and photographer his work has appeared on line and in print in publications around the world. He currently lives in Paris where he works for an active travel company.

Written by Matt Scott

Mexico’s Mayan Temple of Ixchel

When Spanish explorers first sailed ashore Isla Mujeres in 1517, they discovered an island where the Mayans had already lived out part of their existence.  Built hundreds of years earlier, at its southern end stood the temple to the goddess Ix-Chel as well as several stone structures in the shape of women.  To honor Isla Mujeres’ female slant, it was given its current name - Spanish for “the island of women.”    

Positioned on a cliff overlooking the Carribean Sea, the winds and the waters of the centuries have swept across the temple, including 1988’s Hurricane Gilbert which chiseled away part of the structure.  Small in size and remote in location at the point furthest from the island’s largest town and its ferry landing, not many tourists travel to see these  crumbling stones.  Its largely unexplored status just makes this a site all the more compelling.

Sabina Lohr finds that home is not where the heart is, and a good chunk of her life revolves around plotting her next trip, or traveling. She has a Bachelor of Arts with a major in German which, like many liberal arts degrees, has gotten her nowhere except overseas to study. Unlike so many other travelers, she has never kept track of the number of countries she’s traveled to but knows her continent count stands at only three. The other four are calling.

Written by Sabina Lohr

Mexico’s Sculpture by the Caribbean Sea

An outdoor modern art exhibit stands at the southern tip of Isla Mujeres, Mexico, a colorful tribute to the area’s indigenous Mayan civilization. Situated about five miles away from the island’s little downtown area, Punta Sur Sculpture Garden was created in 2001  - the work of almost two dozen Mexican artists as well as sculptors from around the world.  Travelers wanting to mix a little culture into their beach vacation can get to the exhibit by renting a golf cart or by walking your way there early in the morning, before the sun bakes you into the roadway. 

Once you reach the end of the island, you’ll enter Garrafon Reef Park, where you’ll find a path that leads to a cliff on which the temple to the Mayan goddess Ixchel stands.  Strolling this path you’ll encounter dozens of sculptures popping up along the way.  These kaleidoscopic works of art could stand alone in their allure.  But the sky, the cliff and the Caribbean Sea as their backdrop turn this into a uniquely impressive garden of art.

Sabina Lohr finds that home is not where the heart is, and a good chunk of her life revolves around plotting her next trip, or traveling. She has a Bachelor of Arts with a major in German which, like many liberal arts degrees, has gotten her nowhere except overseas to study. Unlike so many other travelers, she has never kept track of the number of countries she’s traveled to but knows her continent count stands at only three. The other four are calling.

Written by Sabina Lohr

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