Gateway to the Desert — Zagora, Morocco

March 9, 2010 · 1 Comment 

I have been to Morocco many times, seen all the famous places but I can never resist to return to Zagora. Located in the Draa Valley in southeastern Morocco close to the border with Algeria, Zagora is my personal Moroccan dream. Considering that I’m a history fan, love ancient sites and museums, this is somewhat surprising, because Zagora has none of it.

It’s a smallish city which was only constructed in the 20th century and although there are some remains of the Almoravid Fortress on top of the Zagora... [Read more]

The Penguins of Simonstown, South Africa

January 11, 2010 · 5 Comments 

When visiting South Africa, I never fail to make a trip to Simonstown on False Bay and to look at the penguins in Bolders Colony nearby. It’s a unique opportunity to observe and mingle with the African penguins which have made their home there since 1982 when the first two pairs happened to settle there and breed. Nobody really knows where they came from and why they chose this particular spot, but obviously they liked it and had come to stay.

... [Read more]

Meandering Morocco, part two

November 5, 2009 · 2 Comments 

For part one

“J’Alla, J’Alla. Madam, give me bag. Very heavy. Not for lady to carry.”

I watch in embarrassment as he is loaded with tonne after tonne. He just stands there obediently, no sign of resistance, not a complaint, just the odd blink and the occasional neigh. Finally, my mule is fully laden and ready to go!!

... [Read more]

Meandering Morocco, part one

October 25, 2009 · Leave a Comment 

I hold my breath. It’s a battle for survival. Should I dare? I finally decide to take the plunge. I make a dash for it as I dodge crazy motorcyclists and cross the chaotic, traffic-jammed road. I get to the other side and, miraculously, I’m still in one piece. Phew, made it. Just about.

Marrakech is hot, humid and humming with activity – an eclectic mix of culture, Berbers clad in brown cloaks, men with long curly beards lying idly by the roadside, old clay buildings, modern hotels, palm trees,... [Read more]

The Maasai of Kenya

June 24, 2009 · 1 Comment 

I was setting up my tent behind the park office in Amboseli NP and didn’t notice a local teenager approaching. His earlobes hung down to his shoulders weighed down by special little copper-colored weights, the rest of the earlobe wrapped in beaded tubes. On his right hip was a sheathed knife, and on his left was a cellphone. “Do you maybe want to visit a Maasai village?” he asked.

Many Maasai are still living within the national parks, and their cows graze the same fields as zebras, white rhinos,... [Read more]